The Here and Now of Climate Change: Crew Embarks on First Human-Powered Expedition of Northwest Passage

The route of the Mainstream Last First expedition goes from Inuvik to Pond Inlet, through water that was once locked in ice

It was Vallely, whose previous journeys include a record-breaking ten-hour run along Vancouver Island’s West Coast Trail and a hike across Russia’s Lake Baikal, who gave the expedition its name. About fifteen years earlier he and a friend were brainstorming what “firsts” were left now that the tallest mountains have been climbed and both the Poles touched. The Northwest Passage had been concurred, but never on human power alone.

When it became clear that this kind of journey would be possible, Vallely began assembling a crew of veteran adventurers he thought could handle the punishing row. Paul Gleeson of Limerick, Ireland is best known for his harrowing journey across the Atlantic with his then girlfriend Tori Holmes, which led them into a hurricane and two tropical storms. The two co-authored a book about the adventure called Crossing the Swell.

Chronicling the journey will be documentary filmmaker Frank Wolf whose previous expeditions include following the route of the Sandakan Death March in Borneo and a ground-level exploration of the route of the proposed Enbridge Northern Gateway pipeline.

This will not be Wolf’s first view with the effects of climate change. In 2009 he canoed the 2,004 km from Yellowknife to Rankin Inlet. Along the way he witnessed the physical evidence of climate change, including dwindling caribou populations and damage to local infrastructure. “In Yellowknife there are buildings that are three years old but they’re completely listing and buckling because the permafrost is gone, permafrost that was there for centuries,” he says.

He is particularly looking forward to connecting with local people around Inuvik and at their halfway point in Cambridge Bay who have seen the effects of climate change for themselves.  

The only novice on the trip will be shipping professional Denis Barnett of Dublin, Ireland who moved to Vancouver four-and-a-half years ago, drawn by the skiing and outdoor lifestyle.

Robin Thacker of Vancouver’s Atlantis Kayaks designed the Arctic Joule specifically for the journey. He says the challenge is not so much the route, but the length of the expedition. The boat is equipped with a solar panel to power communications equipment and a sleeping area at one end big enough to fit all four men, although only two will be sleeping at any given time.

Thacker has spent more than a few sleepless nights recently making subtle adjustments to the design. But in the end he knows it’s up to the rowers to make it work. “They have so much experience between them,” he says. “They’ll be fine.”

As well as being an adventure, this expedition will provide invaluable scientific data on the current state of the Arctic. The crew has partnered with the Vancouver Aquarium’s CROW Program (Canadian Rangers Ocean Watch), which has been working with local Indigenous groups in the far North to gather oceanographic data.

Along their route, the crew will be gathering water samples to test the temperatures, salinity and chemical make-up of the newly melted waters. “Because we’re going so slow, we can take samples in a lot of places,” says Wolf. “Most motor [propelled] boats, if they’re going through, will only take one-tenth of the samples that we will.”

Aquarium Director of Arctic Programs Eric Solomon says he was skeptical when the crew first approached him about the Mainstream Last First.

“The first thing I thought was let me think of all the reasons we’re probably not going to get involved with this,” he says. “I was thinking, first of all, they’re probably going to totally miss the point.”

But after they explained to him their message about climate change and their desire to bring Northern perspectives to Southern audiences, he was sold.

“At the Vancouver Aquarium it’s really important for us the recognition that the environment doesn’t just exist in a vacuum outside the contexts that are political and cultural, economic and social, even nutritional,” he explains. “Clearly this is something these guys get.”

The break-up of ancient arctic ice has opened up the Northwest Passage but still remains a challenge for a rowboat

Irish company Mainstream Renewable Energy is sponsoring the trip. The company’s Country Manager for Canada, Sherra Zulerons, believes that the expedition’s environmental message was a perfect fit for their mission to help wean the world off of fossil fuels.

“While it’s an adventure it’s also a sad time for mankind because it’s demonstrating that climate change is happening, it’s here today and it’s something that is no longer just a story,” she says.

As a testament to the power of that message, Mainstream Last First has already made one convert before it even left land. Barnett, the crew’s youngest member, came onboard for the adventure but says he’d never given much thought to the climate change issue.

“I drive a car with an engine that’s way too big; it’s really not fuel-efficient,” he says. “I used to leave lights on. I didn’t really care. The more I get to know about it, the more terrifying it is. There are people who are streets ahead of us, who are really passionate about it, and they know what they’re talking about. It’s the average Joe on the street like me that needs to be exposed to it.”

Now a convert, Barnett hopes that the Mainstream Last First expedition might help entice people like him to find ways to fight climate change in their own lives. “Hopefully people can relate to what we’re doing—four guys going on an adventure—and go, hang on a second, this is more important,” he says. “This isn’t cool; we’ve got to do something.”

Image Credit: Erika Thorkelson

Image Credit: Mainstream Last First via Flickr